[back]
Curicashajana seen from the Alpamayo moraine camp
Curicashajana 5510m
A small peak that is located SE of
the Alpamayo basecamp, and that dominates the upper Santa Cruz Valley. It is the
southmost peak of the Pucahirca-Rinjirca chain. The peak has no characteristic
shape but resembles a rocky and snowy ridge. After a tiring start through steep
grass, one is rewarded with a challenging summit and outstanding views towards
Taulliraju and Pucahirca. The peak is very rarely climbed.
Summarizing: Better and only moderately more difficult than Urus and Ishinca,
but without the masses!
______________________________________________________________________
|
S-slopes and W-face from the
Alpamayo basecamp
The south slopes and W-face provides the
most straight-forward way from the Alpamayo base camp to the summit. The
climb up to the summit wall is easy scrambling and glacier walking. The
broad W-face couloir is steep and culminates in a corniced summit pyramid.
Not a climb for beginners, but a good choice for a warm-up for bigger
peaks in the range.
The south ridge could provide a good alternative, however, we did not try
it, and there is no description of the climb in any guide book. |
AD
|
7h from the Alpamayo base
camp, 2-3h for the descent. |
|
From the Alpamayo BC, walk
towards the main valley until the zig-zag path goes downwards. Now climb
through the grassy slopes towards east. A grassy ramp is visible (not the
one with the tree). Head towards the ramp which turns out to be a couloir
which has an overhanging rocky wall to its right. Climb the couloir and
the grassy slopes with short rock slabs until reaching a scree-filled
valley at 4700m (bivy places can be found here). Head right and hike up a
grassy moraine to meet the glacier at about 4900m, 3-4h.
On the glacier, gain the upper plateau by a steep ramp on the left. The
upper plateau consists of huge crevasses, but can nevertheless be easy
negotiated. Head towards the summit, then pass at the base of the summit
wall towards N until meeting the broad couloir that comes down from the
main summit. The couloir is moderately steep (50°) and is about 180m in
height. Climb the couloir (two technical axes are recommended). The summit
cornice is then easily gained from E.
Time: 7h from the Alpamayo base camp.
Descent: Walk down the broad N-ridge which is only exposed on the first
meters. After about 200m, the ridge becomes steeeper again. Now abseil on
the lower plateau by using snow stakes (1x60m or 2x30m). From the lower
plateau, the base of the couloir is easily reached.
|
______________________________________________________________________
1. The broad W-couloir
right (N) of the main summit.
2. Descent by the north ridge. The summit cornice is behind.
3. The steep lower W-face is negotiated by abseiling.
|